Tibetan Qinghai

Qinghai has a wide distribution of ethnic groups: Han, Tibetan, Hui, Tu, Mongol, Salar, …  Of which, the Tibetan is one of the most distinctive.  It is said that 21% of the 6 million people in Qinghai are ethnic Tibetan.  Part of the great community of Tibetans in Tibet, Sichuan, and beyond. 

In Xining, there is a big, modern museum of Tibetan culture.  Tibetan culture and history is dominated by its distinctive form of Buddhism.   It is related to the Chinese variety but with many rather different practices.  Such as the primacy of the Dalai Lama and Panchen Lama, the architecture, the clothing, the paintings, the learning system, … 

The museum houses a great collection of Thangkas (sacred paintings on cloth).  Very elaborate, colourful depictions of the Buddha, the Buddhist world view, various spirits, kings and famous teachers, stories that teach, …  One of my favourites is the concept of the six paths of reincarnation: gods, human beings, fierce demigods, animals, hungry ghosts, and hell.  I would have loved to stay and watch more.  But we didn’t have time. I remain hugely impressed by the resources invested in preserving the Tibetan culture in a certain way.  

The Taer Temple (塔爾寺, Kumbum Monastery) is fascinating, in so many ways.  It is one of the most revered sites in Tibetan Buddhism.  It is said hundreds of monks are living and studying there.  Some of them can be seen milling around. Many more seem to be visitors.  

It has a mixture of Tibetan and Chinese (Han) architecture.  The white pagoda is very Tibetan,  So are the trapezoid windows, very colourful walls, flags, …  Inside the monastery, one can feel being in Tibet.  In fact, the Panchen Lama was born not too far from here.  

The believers are amazingly devoted.  Kneeling, prostrating, repeat.  Or, walk, kneel, prostrate, repeat ad infinitum.  Around the temple, around a sacred mountain, to the monastery, from hundreds of kilometres away all the way to Lhasa. Rolling the inscribed wheels. Chanting.  What kind of belief motivate them?

How do they retain these very traditional believes and practices in this rapidly modernising world?  When they are challenged from so many fronts: politics, language, science, culture, technology, entertainment, wealth and poverty, …? It is nothing short of miraculous. It is a great testimony to the power of faith, 

All things goat

In Qinghai succulent goat can be eaten in so many ways. 

Grabbed by hand - my favourite.

Covered by spices. 

Boiled heart.

Boiled head. 

Intestines stuffed with flour, meat, …

Meat on the face. 

With noddles. 

Tender, full of flavour, succulent.  Qinghai is goat lovers’ heaven. 

Qinghai

18 years ago, I was here to visit friends, and watch Muslims celebrate Eid al-Adha. 

This time, I am here in Xining in Qinghai to explore opportunities for new projects for service-learning with a small team. Xining is at the north east edge of the Qinghai-Tibet plateau. Near the center of this 3D topographical map. 

The elevation is slightly more than 2,000 meters. Enough to induce high attitude reaction for some people. There are lots of minorities people here: Hui Muslims, 

Salar Muslims,

Tibetan Buddhists, … 

The geography, people, religion, culture, food, … are all very distinctive. Many other factors, such as a strong partner who share our interests in service-learning, have to work together to make it a good site.  We are here to find out. 

Amah Rock Hike on Lunar New Year

On the First Day of the Lunar New Year, we went to pay our respects to my aunts and their families.  As per Chinese custom.  On the second day, we went hiking with friends. 

Starting in Tai Wai, we hiked up Amah Rock (望夫石).  The hike was not particularly hazardous. But the ascent is fairly steep, and some steps are high.  With my poor balance, it was a challenge, particularly coming down. Decades ago, when I was much younger, the Rock was considered quite an attraction, a popular destination for hiking.  Nowadays it seems less so.  Many young people might not even know what and where it is. 

At the rock, one gets a panoramic view of the western part of Shatin.  In the distance, once can see Taipo Road snaking down from the gap between mountains, to come to Tai Wai / Shatin.  Before the opening of Taipo Road, people who wanted to travel between Shatin and Kowloon have to come through the area around Amah Rock.  

The weather was great for hiking.  Sunny but cool.  We got to see a bit of nature.  Such as the eggs of a moth forming a neat lattice on a green leaf.  And early flowers such as polyspora axillaris (大頭茶).  It kind of resembles a fried egg, sunny side up, with its yellow centre surrounded by white petals.  

Coming down, we decided to check out the crowd worshipping at Che Kung Temple (車公廟).  The third day of the Lunar New Year is the most popular day for coming to the temple.  But on the second day, it was crowded enough.  

The incense was so thick that the attendants at the temple had to wear gas masks. We were choked pretty badly.  At one point, a man poked his incense sticks into the back of my left hand.  It burned off a piece of skin and left a small wound.  I yelled but was too stunned to say anything to the man, beyond “Wah!”.  An older man scolded the younger culprit.  It couldn’t undo the burn in my hand.  But I did feel better that he spoke up for me.  

Then we strolled over to Tsang Walled Village (曾大屋).  It is perhaps one of best preserved Hakka  walled villages in Hong Kong.  It has not changed much since my last visit about 20 years ago.  A lot of distinctive features: the layout of the walls, the style of the rooftops, the colouring scheme, the tiles, the gateways, the ancestor hall, the wells inside, …  It is a whole story by itself.  Many of the residents these days, however, are renters from the outside. 

We ended up watching the fireworks at home,.

Over good food, with a couple of very good friends.  A very enjoyable day to begin the New Year. 

Getting Ready for Lunar New Year

For the Chinese, it is not a proper Lunar New Year without proper food.  Hence each family has been getting ready.  Dried sausages, oysters, mushrooms, ducks, pork bellies, scallops, abalones, sea cucumbers, fish bladder, …

Fresh fish, shrimp, crabs, lobsters, geoducks, …

The pig, in particular, has sacrificed its whole body -  every single part of it - so that we can have a proper feast.  Cows, chicken, ducks, lambs, etc., as well.  But the Chinese are particular to pigs. 

We also like roasted ducks, geese, pork bellies, …

Big bak choi with a string attached.  So that we can hang them up.  So that we can eat them over several days over the New Year Festival, without having to put them in a refrigerator.  

Watermelon seeds, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, pistachios, macadamia nuts, 

…

Noodles of all kinds and colours, …

Sugared lotus seeds, coconut slices, watermelon pieces, …

Fried sugar and peanut-filled dumplings, …

…

Finished New Year’s Eve dinner only an hour or so ago.  But hungry again, already!