Hong Kong - Bird’s Eye View

Returning to Hong Kong from Taiwan, I happened to sit at a window on the left hand side to the rear of the plane, on a clear sunny day, in mid afternoon.  I have not seen Hong Kong from this perspective for some time.  We were landing from the north east, so we were flying across much of the North-East New Territories and North-West Kowloon.  

The first place I recognised was Sai Kung. With little white leisure boats dotting the harbour.  

Soon we crossed the mountains and passed over Shatin.  With the straightened Shing Mun River splitting the old “new” town, the huge oval of the Race course dominating the scene.  I could barely made out the building where my family lived for 7 years, near the MTR station. The Central Park where our children roam. The hills that our children climbed. 

We crossed some of the highest mountains in Hong Kong and flew over the Shing Mun Reservoir, the source of the Shing Mun River.  It is surrounded by dark green forests, yet so very close to the edge of the city.  

Tsuen Wan and Tsing Yi Island.  So densely populated.  With the multiple bridges linking the two.  I remember walking across at least one of them.

Ting Kao Bridge, one of those linking Tsing Yi Island to the mainland.  With its distinctive shape.  I had “run” across it on one of those annual Standard Chartered Hong Kong Full Marathon Runs.  

Tsing Ma Bridge, on which I had run several times.  It had looked so massive up close. Yet so slender from a Bird’s Eye View. I could even see the “Noah’s Ark” on Ma Wan Island, one of many similar “Arks” across the world. 

North Shore of Lantau Island, with DisneyLand faintly visible in the distance.  

And the man-made island that is the traffic exchange just in front of the airport.  Just before landing in Hong Kong International Airport. 

From the Bird’s Eye View, Hong Kong looks as beautiful as ever.  In fact, it is looking vibrant.  There are more and more tall buildings.  More interconnected with visible, beautiful bridges, and hidden tunnels.  More land has been created, to accommodate the growing population.  From a distance, it looks peaceful and welcoming.  It even brings back many pleasant memories.  My wife is waiting at home.  

Once we land, however, the reality hits.  While we are landing, many more are leaving, or have already left.  Many are leaving, not for studies, jobs or adventure - the normal, innocuous reasons for departing.  But because they do not like the place anymore, do not feel they belong anymore, do not feel safe anymore , do not feel welcome anymore.  

 

Uniservitate

Returned yesterday from Taiwan after spending less than 48 hours there.  To give a workshop on the “Global Research Agenda Exercise” to an Asia-Ocenia regional meeting of ~50 people from Uniservitate.  Uniservitate is an international network of Christian Higher Education Institutes (CHEIs), whose mission is to institutionalise service-learning.  Uniservitate has its roots in Latin America, particularly Argentina. 

The meeting was held at Fu Jen Catholic University, with participation coming mainly from Philippines, Taiwan, India, Australia.  Some of them I have met earlier.  I speak, specifically, on the “Global Research Agenda Exercise” being conducted by Professor Andrew Furco, on behalf of IARSLCE (International Association for Research on Service-Learning and Community Engagement”.  

Catholic Universities are some of the most ardent among the numerous universities all over the world doing service-learning.  In the Philippines, I have already met many people from Ateneo de Manila, Santo Tomas, De La Salle, …, all of whom have extensive programs practicing service-learning in one form or another.  

Uniservitate is only a few years old.  However, it has grown very fast, and has already become very active.  Several projects had been given awards this year, at the meeting at Fu Jen.  One taught indigenous youths in the Philippines digital story telling, to help them advocate for their rights.  Another provide pro bono law assistance in Australia.  And there were more.  

Many of them are now striving to institutionalise service-learning, to embed SL into the core academic programs, to conduct rigorous research, to create more impactful projects.  Precisely what we have been trying so hard to do for 20 years.  It is so exciting to meet people with the same mind, to share experiences, to encourage each other.  We will surely meet again, some other time, some other place.  In the mean time, we all work hard, knowing that we are in good company. 

Mid-Autumn

At Mid-Autumn, we Chinese like to celebrate it as a festival.  People book tables at restaurants to have a big family feast.  Housewives buy chicken and fish to cook a big meal for the family.  People buy and send each other mooncakes of all sorts.  Adults watch and children play with lanterns.  People eat all sorts of fruits: star fruit, persimmons, …  It is supposed to be a time of harvest, a time of plenty.  While the full moon signifies fullness, completeness, family together.  

It would be perfect if it were true.  Unfortunately, for many, the reality is nothing of the kind.  I am reminded of a student who has been admitted to our university, who is still stuck in Gaza, internally displaced from her home, but cannot get out of Gaza because of the blockade.  Even she does get out, she will be safe, but separated from her family.  Then there is the rest of the 2 million still hanging on in Gaza.  What kind of Mid-Autumn are they living through?

Of course, the war is still raging in Ukraine, with no end in sight.  What about the Rohingyas, persecuted both inside and outside Myanmar, for whom no place is safe?  The rest of the Burmese, stuck in a civil war itself?  For several years in the middle of the 2010s, we had been sending teams to Myanmar each year.  Things were difficult, there were poverty everywhere, the education system was severely underdeveloped, but there was hope for the better.  Now, we dare not send our students there.  We don’t know what is happening with many of our friends there.  

There is also Yemen, Sudan, Somalia, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Tibet, …, and more.

The situation is far for ideal where we are.  But at least we can still have food (pretty good food at that), work, go to school, meet with friends, travel, talk with friends and family at a distance, dream for the future, … 

Yet, even where we are, and a lot more elsewhere, families are divided, and broken.  People are silenced,.  Many are in jail, some because they made mistakes, but there are also many who should not be there.  Many are hurt, and dead.  Many are in poverty, sick and in distress.  While we celebrate our good fortune, I cannot get rid of the feeling that the world is suffering, that all is not well.  Those of us who profess to believe in God may ask “God, don’t you care?”  I suspect that God is asking us the exact same question.  

The Steam Hut (蒸廬), again and again

Because of my work travels, my wife and I have not been to our favourite dim sum place too often this summer.  Today we have some time on our hands, so we took the MTR to Tsuen Wan, to go to Steam Hut. 

The food, of course, do not disappoint.  And we got to see some of our friends.  

One of our favourites (we have many) is the Guangdong steamed soup (燉湯).  Some call it double steaming, double boiling, etc.  Basically, you put all the ingredients and water in a covered ceramic jar, and the jar is then steamed or boiled in water for hours.  Because the ceramic jar is sealed, there is no lost of ingredient or soup during the process.  You get all the taste sealed in.  The do not add salt or MSG to it.  All the taste comes from the ingredients, which are plenty.  I don’t remember coming here without having some of their soup.  And we have never been disappointed. 

The same quality and care go into all the dim sum, and steamed rice.  I believe we have tried each and every dish here.  And they are all good.  

My favourites include the steamed ribs, sesame bun, shrimp dumplings, stir fried turnip cake, steam rice, …  Basically everything.  

That is why we take the time to come here.  It takes at least 45 minutes one way, from home.  So eating here to have a meal takes almost half a day.  

This morning we went running.  

Then we came here for dim sum in the afternoon. 

Afterwards I went to one of our favourite upstairs book shops in Mongkok for a few hours, taking two books home.  

All in all, a full and fulfilling day. 

Super Typhoon YAGI

For the first time in 2024, Typhoon Signal No. 8 was hoisted.  At the centre of YAGI, the wind reached 230 kilometres per hour.  But it passed around 400 km south of Hong Kong. 

When I went out for a walk around 8:30 am this morning, The wind was fairly strong at times.  But it was not so strong that I had to fight it.  Much of the time I actually had my cap on.  

Some tree branches are strewn around the streets.  But I did not see big fallen trees.  

Most shops were closed.  But one can still buy meat, 

fish, …, even durian.  

Have congee for breakfast, 

with steamed rice rolls, fried noodles, …

Pigeons walked the street, freely.

Even the white-headed waves in the harbour did not look too threatening.  

People were jogging on the water front. 

Reporters looked bored.  

It may disappoint some people.  But many people will breathe easier.  Farmers, people living in low-lying areas, people who work on the street, street sleepers, …

In the mean time, many of us are already back in the office.  Some are preparing for the class this evening. 

Wet market in the Philippines

I always like to walk the streets and go to the wet market, whether in Hong Kong or a foreign country.  Hence, on the morning before flying home from Manila, when I have a bit of time I took a walk towards the Wet Market at the Cartimer Shopping Center, from my hotel near De La Salle University.  

Along the way, I can see people going to work, having breakfast on the street, going in and out of jeepneys, going to the big bus depot, taking groceries home, …  When I see people taking groceries home, I know I am near the wet market.  

When I get there, it does not disappoint.  It is not too different from those in Hong Kong.  Lots of vegetables, fruits, meat, and seafood.  

A lot of the seafood look quite fresh.  This is not surprising,  Since Manila sits on the waterfront, and the Philippines consists of many thousands of islands.  One is never very far from the sea when you are in the Philippines.  

Some of the fish and fish parts look familiar. 

Others are less common but not unheard of.  Some are really nice looking.  One sight that is common in Hong Kong which is quite rare in other countries is live fish swimming in big water tanks.  Here the fish is fresh, but not live in water tanks.  

Pigs and pig parts, such as hearts and stomach, are not uncommon.  

Live pigeons.  They kill them and clean them for you right there.  

Filipinos eat lots and lots of rice, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  

In Hong Kong, people do that too in the old days.  There were numerous shops which sold nothing but  rice. It was big business.  The government has to carefully manage the supply and price of rice because people ate so much of it.   Not anymore.    Here, rice remains ubiquitous. 

Walking the streets and the wet market is a fascinating way to get to know a country, and its people.  

On the way back, I picked up a couple of soursop, to bring back to Hong Kong. More about that later.