Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (嵐山竹林)

The bamboo forest (also called Sagano Bamboo Forest 嵯峨野竹林) is rather pale grey-green, rather than bright or dark green.  Since this is deep winter.  

But very pleasing and enjoyable nevertheless.  

When we visited, it was a cold and wet morning. Then snow started to fall. An hour later, the sun came out.  At one point, snow was flying in my face while the sun was shining.  It was exhilarating.

There were, as always, a lot of visitors, just like other attractions around Kyoto.  There are, fortunately, many interesting places covering a big area. 

There is the bamboo forest, many temples, a river, an old railway track, dams, shops, …

If one is willing to walk a bit, one can reach the upper reaches of the river, and be rewarded by quiet and tranquility, surrounded by great scenery. Imagine living in small houses on the river, among the bamboo and tall trees, with few neighbours, if any.

Some people come in what seem like kimonos. But not all who wear kimonos are Japanese. Many are foreigners, speaking Putonghua, Cantonese, English, and more.  

They all look pretty nevertheless. 

Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺)

Kiyomizu-dera is kind of a must-see in Kyoto. It looks quite different in different seasons.  Some claim it is best in Spring, when the flowers are blooming. Others like deep winter, when the whole place is covered by snow.  Or green in summer and autumn. 

We are there in winter.  It was cold, but there was no snow.  The place was crowded, as expected. But it was big enough, so it wasn’t too too bad.  In fact, there are corners off the beaten track where it is actually relatively quiet, where one can take the time to appreciate the beauty. 

The wood work is exquisite. Looking up the 3-storey pagoda, one can take a long time to study the intricate woodwork holding up the flying roof.  The style is similar to the Chinese pagoda.  But the colouring and some details seem distinctively Japanese.  It is said that no nails are used.  

The most impressive, of course, is the big stage supported by the 13 meter tall pillars.  Because it is winter, the structure is clearly visible from many different angles.  Some are particularly awe-inspiring.  

It is said that many people have jumped off the stage.  It is believed that if one survives, one's wish will be granted.  Many did survive, but I am not sure whether their wishes were granted.  

The temple is up on a hill.  Shops line the street leading up from the city up to the temple, towards the east.  Looking down the street from the temple, the street looked jam packed, impossible to pass. 

Some side streets look interesting as well.  A mix of traditional roof tops at various distances pressed into one single frame.  One can stay and study it, if it is not that cold. 

We stopped at a cafe for matcha pizza.  Piping hot, an excellent snack before dinner. 

All in all, a very pleasant visit.  

10000 Torii (鳥居)

Fushimi Inari-taisha 伏見稲荷大社 is a Shinto shrine. As the name implies, it is mainly about rice and agriculture.  However, for many, particularly for foreigners, it is famous  for the 10,000 torii all over the mountain.  

When we got there on a cold morning, it was quite crowded.  Fortunately, we we climbed up through the columns of torii, the crowd started to thin. 

About half way up the mountain, most people stopped, and turned back down. 

My youngest daughter and I pushed on. She had to stopped a few times to wait for me, but I didn’t give up.  Now we can start to enjoy the climb, and the quiet.  

And we read the inscriptions on the torii. Who offered it? When?  Some of them were obviously quite old, setup during the reign of the previous emperor, or the one before, and the one before that.  But there are also many that were set up during reign of the current emperor, who has only been reigning for a few years. 

The further you go, the further you can see, and the quieter it gets.  Along the way, many many small shrines to a wide range of deities were set up.  It gives you a sense of what many of the Japanese believe, and how.  

It is clearly worth the effort to climb the mountain. 

Nanzoin Temple 南蔵院

We had a very relaxing time at Nanzoin Temple about 15 km outside Fukuoka, to the East. 

We took a slow local train, which befits our destination.  It was a cold, slightly wet morning.  We got off at a station named after the temple, and there were nothing around the station.  

On the bridge crossing the river, metal strips were set into the hand rails. Sticks were provided.  When you hit the strips in order, it plays out a soothing tune.  It probably means something.   

The few of us visitors were surrounded by trees, streams, elegant wooden buildings, and winding paths.  The effect is calming and quieting. 

The climax of the visit was the huge, reclining blue Buddha.  

Just look at the size of the feet. 

There is a fishing monk.  Or does he protect the fisherman? 

Coming down the hill, there was a shrine which protects the animals: cats, dogs, pigs and more.  

The whole trip was very pleasant and enjoyable.  

Manhole Covers in Japan

In Japan, each city seems to make its own distinctive manhole covers, reflecting local landmarks or special interests. In Osaka, there is, of course, the iconic Osaka castle. 

And tje Expo 2025.  

In Hiroshima, there are cranes, presumably a symbol for peace.

There is also the nasty, fun-to-watch okonomimura. 

And the local professional baseball team, Toyo Carp.

In Fukuoka, plum blossoms are everywhere, in the trees, pastries, food, …  Hence it is no surprise that they are also on manhole covers.  

In Kyoto, we found not a manhole cover, but a distinctive street sign set in the middle of a junction. 

They all make walking the streets that much more interesting.  Hong Kong, in fact, is starting to join in the fun. With distinctive manhole covers beginning to appear in some districts recently.   

War, war war!

“Miyuki Bridge was covered with severely burned people. I held the camera up, but I couldn’t snap the shutter.  Finally, after about 20 minutes of hesitation, I took my first picture.”  It was around 11 AM, August 6, 2,270 meters from the hypocenter. Roughly 3 hours after the atomic bomb exploded.  

Many people believe the domed skeletal remains of a grand governmental building, which has become an icon of the site, was centre of the explosion.  

Actually the bomb hit a spot ~200 meters to the east of that building.  Everything near the centre of explosion was obliterated.  That building could not have survived had it been any closer.  

Many people were vaporised by the explosion and intense heat instantly.  Many more died instantly.  Most of the people within kilometres of the explosion died within the month, if not immediately, horribly.  140,000 of them.  Countless more died years later, from diseases caused by the long term effects of the radiation. 

Everyone agrees that the atomic bomb is a horrible horrible weapon, that it should never be used.  Yet someone finds a reason to use it.  The Americans claim that it was necessary to stop the Soviet Communists from grabbing more territory and influence.  A necessary evil to stop a even greater evil.  

Japan, 70 years after World War II, is still haunted by it. People from many countries come to Hiroshima to pay respects to the dead.  One phenomenon puzzles me.  We saw many foreigners, including many Chinese, both Putonghua speaking and Cantonese speaking, in the markets and restaurants in Osaka. We saw many foreigners, but few Chinese, at the Atomic Bomb Memorial in Hiroshima, whether Putonghua speaking or Cantonese speaking.  When we got to Fukuoka, the Chinese appear en masse again.  We wonder why that is.  

Wars are horrible things.  Most people who die and suffer in wars do not deserve to suffer and die like that.  Yet someone always finds a reason to pursue a war.  Always.    It seems everywhere I go, war is always present, or threatening.  When I was in Vietnam, there were many remains of the Vietnam War in the 1960s and 70s: prisons, tunnels, museums, …  In Cambodia, there are those killing fields from the genocide of the 1970s, and the aftermath of that is still stark .  In Rwanda, the numerous memorials, skulls and bones from the ethnic genocide of 1974.  When I was in Myanmar around 2014-18, I did not realise it was only a relatively peaceful and hopeful interlude between civil wars.  In China, there is, of course, the Sino-Japanese War of the 1930s-1940s, and other horrible conflicts. In Korea, we went to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), which reminds everyone the Korean War, which took place 60 years ago, is not over.  When we went to Israel in early 2010s, Israel seemed calm.   But Israel and Palestine has been fighting, on and off, for 70 years, and have not really stopped.  When I visited Russia in the 1990s and later 2010s, Russian seemed calm as well.  Yet the Russian army is now fighting and occupying a large part of Ukraine, with many dying and more to come.  

Why do humans keep on saying war is a horrible thing, yet always find a way to justify  pursuing it?  Or using war to threaten and pressure other people to submit to their will?