Higashi Hongan-ji 東本願寺 and Tibet

On a cold winter morning, in blistering wind, we were walking north from Kyoto Train Station looking for a place for brunch, when we spotted a big temple from across the street. 

It turned out to be Higashi Hongan-ji.  I did not recognise the English name. But the Chinese/Kanji name 東本願寺 sounded familiar.  Why was that?  Where have I read/heard it before?  

It turned out to be a book I read recently as part of my study on Tibet.  [藏蒙旅行記] by 寺本婉雅 (Engo Teramoto).  

He was the second Japanese person who went to Tibet in 1899, towards the end of the Qing Dynasty. He was a Buddhist monk from Higashi Hongan-ji (東本願寺)!  He went to Tibet to learn about Tibetan Buddhism. He wanted to connect Tibetan Buddhism with Japanese Buddhism, specifically with the Hongan-ji Branch of Buddhism.  

At the same time, he was spying China, particularly Tibet for the Japanese military. In particular, in those days, Tibet was seeking support from Russia and the British, in its defence against domination from the Chinese.  He wanted to orient Tibet towards Japanese instead, through Buddhism.  All in the vision of the expansion of Japanese power, militarily, politically as well as culturally.  

With this as background, we went inside.  The main hall was dedicated to the Founder. 

The architecture is exquisite in architecture and workmanship. In subdued dark colours.  Awe inspiring. 

Inside the cavernous main hall, it was, of courses, very quiet. The environment very conducive to self-reflection.  This temple is not among the most popular tourist attraction.  Few people are here.  And those few are all very respectful.  

While a slightly smaller Hall, to the left (south) of the main hall, is dedicated to Amida Buddha. Also known as Amitabha (阿彌陀佛), very popular in China. 

I wish I could look through their archives, to see if I can find more about Engo Teramoto, and his excursions to China/Tibet.  And any other connections between Japan and China.  I do not know the Japanese language.  But I believe I can understand part of the literature, because of the extensive use of Kanji (Chinese characters).  

The link between Japan and China is not a surprise.  But this specific link between Japan and Tibet, the book, and Engo Teramoto is all very fascinating.  A very pleasant surprise on this trip to Kyoto.