Muslim Qinghai

18 years ago I came to Qinghai during the Corban Festival (Er’de Corban, Sacrifice Festival).  I heard that Muslims believed that Allah (God?) asked Ibrahim to sacrifice his son Ishmail to test his faith.  Ibrahim passed the test and a goat (sheep? lamb?) was subsequently sacrificed in place of Ishmail.  Thereafter Muslims celebrate the event by slaughtering goats, and praying at the mosque.  

I was hugely impressed by the thousands upon thousands of people kneeling and praying on the street outside the mosque in sub-zero temperature, for hours.

Then we watched several goats being slaughtered, with their blood drained, then skinned, and eaten.   With the richer sharing their abundance with their neighbours.  I remember distinctly the goats’ intestines being cleared, leaving the intestines almost translucent, and then offered to the mosque, together with the rest of the internal organs.  The meat, having the blood drained, but not yet washed, being so white, and looking so clean.  

This year, I return.  Where the white, big Dongguan mosque stood, I found a dark, Chinese architecture style mosque.  At first, I thought the Chinese style mosque was built in front of the old white mosque.  When I looked closer, and compared with my old photos taken in 2008, I realised that the old white mosque was no longer.  It seemed to have been replaced with the dark, Chinese style mosque.  Is this a sign of the localization of Islam?  

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n 2008, we climbed to the roof of the building across the street from the mosque, and watched.  I was surprised to find the building still standing.  I was tempted to climb to the roof again.  But there wasn’t enough time.  

The area around the mosque is vibrant, with food stalls, restaurants, shops, schools, and lots and lots of people. We are considering bringing a team here to work at one of the schools.  We might also bring a team here to do eye inspections.  Perhaps in the big square in front of the mosque?

When I eat stuffed goat intestines, I was reminded of the intestines of the sacrificed goat offered to the mosque.  Is this where they ended up?  

My favourite dish remans the boiled lamb, eaten with spices.  

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verything seems to be linked, in some way. Qinghai is a fascinating place.  I would love to return, to explore some more.