Sunday, July 26, 2020

Run to Anderson Road 安達臣道

Yesterday (Saturday) I ran up to the quarry on Anderson Road.  

Passing by the old Kowloon City ferry pier, some people were enjoying the breeze on the waterfront.  Out in the harbour the land continues to be reclaimed.  That has been a large part of the story in Hong Kong for a long time.  Our family, like many others, currently lives in a high rise in Hung Hom which was built on reclaimed land, near the old Hung Hom Ferry (not the current one). 


Passing through Sun Po Kong, I passed by Nga Tsin Wai Village 衙前圍村, a village being demolished.  Everybody had already been driven out.  This is also something Hong Kong has been good at - demolishing our own history and heritage.  For now, the evacuated houses are still sitting next to the Kai Tak River 啟德河.  It is called a river, but it looks more like a ditch.  


Running up old Clear Water Bay Road, I was struck by how much living and working space have been carved out of mountains.  

Hong Kong has long been struggling with the land and the sea, to create space for ourselves.  We have learned to do that and we are confident doing that.  Right now, however, we are faced with a virus and a political threat that seem even more intractable.  


Anderson Road has evolved over the years.  It is now broken up in the middle.  Its function as a road has largely been taken up by a new road, On Sau Road 安秀道, which passes through two new housing estates: On Tai Estate 安泰邨 and On Tat Estate 安達邨.  Soon there will be more.  It was a huge quarry around here, and the signs are still everywhere.  Hong Kong has been very successful in building on mountains.  


The view up here is great.  You are at the same level of Fai Ngo Shan.  Here, you are living higher above most other people in Hong Kong.  The air feels clearer and cleaner.  It is less crowded.  The problem is getting in and out.  Last time I came on public transport, and it took a long time.  This time I ran, and it took much longer.  Running up old Clear Water Bay Road is excruciating.  And it is much worse on a hot summer day.  Coming up through Sau May Ping is no better. 


Coming down through Sau May Ping, I had a chance to visit the Temple for the Monkey King again.  The yellow-coloured temple is set in the middle of several others, dedicated to Kwun Yum, etc.  


The Monkey King 美猴王, “Emperor co-equal with Heaven” 齊天大聖,  was, of course, a fictional character, a very interesting one. 


A monkey who became humanan officer the court of the Emperor of Heaven taking care of horses 弼馬溫,   a follower of the monk who travelled to the west 孫悟空, and finally a buddha 鬥戰勝佛.  


Coming back down to Kwun Tong, I passed by another small temple sitting under a big tree.  Big rocks and big trees are often considered special, revered as the abode of the local god who takes care of the neighbourhood.  There are probably hundreds of such little temples.  


I was exhausted.  I had to take the MTR home.  I feel entitled to take the rest of the day off, to recover.  

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